Temple Path
Sugimoto-dera Temple
Said to be the oldest temple in Kamakura, reached by a flight of moss-covered stone steps.
Nikaido & Jomyoji, Kamakura Wakaremichi by night
Which path
today?
Which path
tomorrow?
East of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, the road splits in two. Locals call the spot Wakaremichi, “the forking path.” Beyond it lie hidden valleys, old temples and a quieter Kamakura. Start your day here, at the fork in your journey. Once the day-trippers leave, Kamakura shows another face: valleys gone dark, old temples under the stars. This is a small way station where travelers change trains.
Here, the path divides.
TERA
Temple Path
Sugimoto-dera, Hokoku-ji, Jomyo-ji. Old temples strung along the Kanazawa Kaido road.
First thing tomorrow, to old temples before the crowds.
YATO
Valley Path
From Egara Tenjin to Kamakura-gu and Zuisen-ji, deep into the folds of the hills.
At night the valleys belong to insect song and stars.
UMI
Sea Path
Out of the valleys to the sea at Yuigahama and Zaimokuza. Afternoons belong to the sea breeze.
Tomorrow, the sea. How will you walk to the morning beach?
SHOKU
Food Path
A bowl in the morning, a rest at midday, a drink at dusk. Places to eat around Wakaremichi, by time of day.
Tonight's drink, and tomorrow's breakfast.
SignpostsTomorrow's signposts
The quiet Kamakura within walking distance of Wakaremichi. Places around Wakaremichi worth walking to first thing.
Valley Path
Egara Tenjin Shrine
The god of learning, just inside the valleys from Wakaremichi, with a memorial built by manga artists.
Valley Path
Kamakura-gu Shrine
A shrine to Prince Morinaga, founded by order of Emperor Meiji. Locals call it Otonomiya.
DAY TRIP
A day with
a fork in the road
Plan tomorrow
tonight.
Our day trips are not one straight line. At each fork you choose where to go, depending on the weather and your mood.
- Old Books and Vintage Clothes: Crossing to the Other Side of the Station
- The Salt Road: From the Kanazawa Kaido to the Asaina Pass
- From Winter into Early Spring: Narcissus and Plum in the Valleys
- 9:00Start with breakfastDecide today's path over breakfast.
- 10:00WakaremichiThe path divides here.
-
If sunny → Valley Path
From Kamakura-gu to Zuisen-ji, walking between the hills.
If rainy → Temple Path
Hokoku-ji's bamboo garden is at its best in the rain.
- 13:00A midday detourCome down from the valleys and take a break.
- 17:00On to dinnerEnd the day back at Wakaremichi.
Breakfast, lunch and dinnerDinner tonight, breakfast tomorrow
MORNING ・ 7:00–10:00
BreakfastTomorrow's breakfast
Kamakura for early risers. A quiet breakfast while the streets are still empty.
- Nishimikado have cafe ― Open from 7:00 in quiet Nishimikado: a morning plate of rice-flour bread and Kamakura vegetables.
- Mon Péché Mignon ― A bakery on the Kanazawa Kaido, right by Wakaremichi. Our pick: the wild casse-croûte.
HIRU ・ from 11:00
LunchTomorrow’s lunch
When your legs get tired, come down from the valleys for a rest. A slow lunch near Wakaremichi.
- TELEGRAPH: Sashimi Set for Lunch, Tonjiru Set for Dinner ― At TELEGRAPH in Wakaremichi, Kamakura: a sashimi set made with fish from the shop next door at lunch, and a hearty tonjiru set at dinner. Open 11:00–21:30, every day.
- Cafe Kai-Koh ― Right by Wakaremichi: chai and curry at lunch, spiced dishes and a drink in the evening. A small café that changes with the hour.
- KAZRO DELI KAMAKURA ― A tiny deli in Yukinoshita serving Middle Eastern food made only with vegetables: falafel, hummus and a gentle bowl.
- cafe kaeru ― A house café with a garden, next to Egara Tenjin. A slow lunch on the Valley Path.
EVENING ・ from 17:00
DinnerDinner
Kamakura after the day-trippers leave. A privilege of staying the night.
- TELEGRAPH: Sashimi Set for Lunch, Tonjiru Set for Dinner ― At TELEGRAPH in Wakaremichi, Kamakura: a sashimi set made with fish from the shop next door at lunch, and a hearty tonjiru set at dinner. Open 11:00–21:30, every day.
- Cafe Kai-Koh ― Right by Wakaremichi: chai and curry at lunch, spiced dishes and a drink in the evening. A small café that changes with the hour.
- Kamakura Yukinoshita Roast Beef ― Roast beef and craft beer brewed on site, in Yukinoshita east of Hachimangu.
- Kadoya, Italian in an Old House ― Italian food in an old house just north of Wakaremichi. The pasta is excellent.
FindsTomorrow's Finds
Old books, vintage clothes, old things. Something to find along the way. Tomorrow, wander between the shelves.
Old Books ・ West of the Station
Kohbundo Shoten
Founded in 1940: the oldest and largest secondhand bookshop in Kamakura, on Yuigahama-dori.
Vintage Clothing ・ West of the Station
LOTUS vintage
A vintage shop in Ogigayatsu: vintage clothing and records.
Old Books ・ West of the Station
Kamakura Imakoji Bookstore
A weekend-only secondhand bookshop in an apartment in Ogigayatsu, strong on travel, film and history.
TOMARU
Stay at the fork
in your journey.
Tonight,
stay at the fork.
Wakaremichi at night is a different place from Wakaremichi by day. Stay, and the early-morning valleys and the hushed temples at dusk are yours.
TELEGRAPH
About Wakaremichi
Every journey has its forks.
Whichever way you go, the journey is yours.